Packed Scorpion fs, originally uploaded by Ben Cooper.
The box says Birdy, but there’s actually a complete Scorpion fs
recumbent trike in there – a bit of dismantling needed, but nothing
serious 😉

Folding Bikes, Recumbent Bikes & Trikes, Cargo Bikes, Tandems, Custom Framebuilding
Packed Scorpion fs, originally uploaded by Ben Cooper.
The box says Birdy, but there’s actually a complete Scorpion fs
recumbent trike in there – a bit of dismantling needed, but nothing
serious 😉
Drop-bar Moulton with Alfine, originally uploaded by Ben Cooper.
An interesting project – fitting the Alfine itself isn’t a big deal, getting it to work with a bar-end shifter is the trickier bit. The trick is to use a Travel Agent – a roller thingy designed to let road brake levers operate disc brakes.
Heinzmann micro throttle, originally uploaded by Ben Cooper.
Made a new micro throttle for use with pedelec systems…
Brompton pivot replacement, originally uploaded by Ben Cooper.
Tool to remove old bushings: £145
Reamer for new bushings: £200
Doing the job properly: priceless
😉
Despite appearances, you don’t just wallop in the new bushes and hammer in the pivot pin – do that and the entire thing locks solid. Some other Brompton dealers (naming no names) have yet to learn this…
Purple 8-spd Brommie, originally uploaded by Ben Cooper.
Third one in a week – I can’t get the 8-speed hubs fast enough, so I’m building them in strict order. This one looks lovely in the sunshine – it’s a superlight, with 8-speed hub, and the no-longer-available Stelvio tyres (I’ve run out now).
Finishing off another 8-speed Brompton, originally uploaded by Ben Cooper.
This is the latest incarnation of the 8-speed conversion, using Sturmey’s own chainset which is very tidy…
Brompton M8L + Pantour, originally uploaded by Ben Cooper.
Using up the last of my Pantour hubs – blurry iPhone pic, sorry 😉
Recumbent trailertrike…, originally uploaded by Ben Cooper.
Built for a child with special needs, this will tow behind any bike using a standard Chariot hitch – just finished it off today after a manic weekend of building…
For general reference, here’s the instructions I wrote for fitting the 8-speed. The chainset bit might vary depending on what chainset I can get hold of.
Fitting the back wheel:
– Take off your old back wheel, and swap the tyre, tube and rim tape onto the new wheel.
– Take off the original tensioner, and all gear cables, including the pulley for the gear cable on the right side.
– Slide the new wheel into the dropouts – it should go with the cable guide pointing upwards – it can only go in one of two ways, so it should be obvious which way is right.
– Slide the two tabbed washers onto the axle, with the tabs going in to the slots in the dropouts. Important: use the new washers supplied with the kit, not the original ones from your old wheel. Fit a Sturmey nut on the left side, and the plain nut on the right, and tighten.
– Slide the chain tensioner on on the right, then fit the thin washer, and the other Sturmey nut. Only do this nut up hand-tight, you’ll want to take it off again when you fit the cable.
– Pump up the tyre.
Fitting the chainset and chain:
– Take off the pedals and chainset.
– Fit the new chainset, and fit the pedals.
– the chain may not be the right length – with the standard 20t sprocket, 33t chainring, and latest tensioner, the chain should be 100 links long.
– if you fit a new chain, fit either a 7/8-speed derailleur chain, or a narrow single-speed one like the SRAM PC-1.
Fitting the shifter and cables:
– Fit the shifter to the right handlebar – you’ll need to cut down the handlebar grip a bit, and it should go with the cable to the front of the brake lever, not behind. If space is cramped, you can usually move the brake lever inboard a bit too. Make sure the shifter doesn’t restrict movement of the brake lever.
– Thread the outer gear cable through the plastic cable gatherer behind the stem, down alongside the other cables, behind the chainset and through the cable guide there, through the cable guide on the chainstay (going from outside to inside, like the brake cable) and up through the square tube that used to hold the plastic pulley, before curving down towards the cable guide on the hub – depending on your handlebars, you will probably need to cut a bit off the cable to make it the right length.
– Thread the gear cable through the outer cable. It’s easiest if you don’t put the outer cable into the cable guide on the hub yet, you can do this later.
– Fit the cable clamp as in the Sturmey instructions – put the shifter into 8th, and fit the clamp 105mm along from the end of the outer cable. Cut off the spare cable.
– It’s easiest if you take the tensioner off again for this bit – push the plastic cable clip on the hub backwards so you have some slack, and clip the cable clamp in place. Try operating the shifter to make sure the cable clip rotates around the hub correctly.
– Adjust the gears as per the Sturmey instructions – in 4th gear, make sure the yellow dot is in the centre of the window, on the back of the hub on the right-hand side.
– Re-fit the tensioner, and try again – operate the shifter a few times while pedaling, and check again that the yellow dot is in the centre of the window – adjust the barrel adjuster on the gear shifter if necessary.
That should be it 😉
HSD Brompton, originally uploaded by Ben Cooper.
With a bit of bodging and machining special parts, I’ve fitted a Schlumpf High Speed Drive to a Brompton…